![](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Tc0t8CgyXiI/SWFNCND_SuI/AAAAAAAACcI/ZzlO6bY6tt4/s200/SawbuckTable.jpg)
All of the raised panels I've ever made have had flat slopes, but the sawbuck's are concave (cove profile).
If you don't have a moulding plane that matches the cove's shape (raising hand) and believe it's too dangerous a task to be performed on a table saw (raising both hands), then you need to get resourceful.
![](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Tc0t8CgyXiI/SWFNCG6mikI/AAAAAAAACcQ/Ft6Ytv9VL04/s200/Grooves.jpg)
It's all about stock removal. How you achieve it depends on the tools you have and your personal preference.
The top edge of the slopes sits a bit lower than the decorative field, so I reached for a tool I'd never used before, a Record 043, to define the depth of the recess and the width of the slopes.
![](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Tc0t8CgyXiI/SWFa3Fyt_oI/AAAAAAAACcw/nGOQ0-yrJj8/s200/Cove.pg1.jpg)
Even though I spent time sharpening the Record's blade and flattening the fence and depth stop, it worked very poorly—tearing up the wood like kids unwrapping Christmas gifts. It w
![](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Tc0t8CgyXiI/SWHSfmMZgvI/AAAAAAAACc4/T6rPIppfew8/s200/Cove.pg2.jpg)
So I employed my Sargent combination plane, which worked superbly.
From there, a block plane, moulding plane, rasp, scraper, and sanding block finished the profile. Some of these steps could have been skipped, but I was figuring this out as I went along.
I'm sure there are a number of other ways to create a cove so feel free to share your own creative methods.